Thats weird, 29-year-oldDrea Okekethought as she examined her new set of box braids.
As a first-generation Nigerian, getting her hair braided was practically a birthright.
In her college years, weaves were the style du jour.
Ana Jarén
When I got a weave Id keep it in for as long as I could, says Okeke.
But all that repetitive tension on the scalp proved harmful over time.
Patches of her hair began to fall out, eventually revealing a humbling diagnosis:traction alopecia.
Close-up of Ashley Parker’s hairline in October 2023.
It started at the top of my head, mostly around the left side, Okeke says.
It started with one patch then grew to more and more.
Traction alopecia is a form ofhair losscaused by prolonged tension on the scalp.
Drea Okeke’s traction alopecia in 2020.
Symptoms include tenderness and pain on the scalp and pimple-like bumps in the areas of highest tension.
It’s a process that usually takes years, Dr. Day said.
I was so worried but the hairdresser was like, ‘Don’t worry.
Parker’s hairline in 2024.
It’ll grow back.’
Just a few hours after getting therelaxer, Parker got box braids.
Traction alopecia can affect people of any ethnicity, but is most commonly seen in Black women.
Part of the struggle is calling them protective styles.
Let’s call them styles of convenience because that’s what they really are.
Hairstyles don’t have to be tight for you to develop traction alopecia, says Dr. Aguh.
Part of the struggle is calling them protective styles, says Dr. Aguh.
Let’s call them styles of convenience because that’s what they really are."
This is exactly what 23-year-old Nyana Martin faced.
It felt really tight from a mix of the twisted locs and bobby pins.
I never kept the pinups in for long because they hurt, says Martin.
I could maybe give them maybe four or five days max because theywould hurt that much.
When Martins hair began to fall out in the back, it came out unevenly.
I don’t think I really cared much about it until it wasn’t growing back, Martin says.
Martin even underwent hormone testing on the advice of a dermatologist to determine if this was a hormonal issue.
Everyone around me was like, Well, just stop touching it.
Maybe it’s falling out because you keep touching it," says Martin.
Its common in the Black community to pass down ancient hair traditions as modern-day fixes.
After all, it worked for our grannies and their grandmothers, so its good enough for us.
Theres also the treatment that my mother loved to use: Just leave it alone.
She thought that I just developed this complex overnight.
In reality, effectively treating traction alopecia requires consistently using medication likeminoxidila method Dr. Aguh advocates for.
Hair is so personal to Black womenespecially when were losing it.
I just kept on asking myself, How did I let it get this bad?
How did I not notice it on time?
I felt like it was my fault, so I needed to fix it, says Parker.
Hair is so personal to Black womenespecially when were losing it.
It’s more comforting to know that the person who’s treating me understands my hair, says Parker.
Close-up of Ashley Parkers hairline in October 2023.
Eventually, this isolation drove her to depression.
Losing your hair can be mentally consuming.
Parker found it hard to focus on anything else.
I didnt have the motivation to do anything, go anywhere.
I was so depressed about the state of it.
She triedwigsand different means of covering her natural hair, but nothing made her feel better.
Okeke also recalls feeling embarrassed, awkward, and insecure.
Drea Okekes traction alopecia in 2020.
Its a cultural thing.
We need to look good and our hairstyles are art.
it’s possible for you to tell our personality from our hairstyle.
If we got a bob, were feeling like a boss.
If its a long buss-down wig, we’re ready to go out.
Different hairstyles allow us to express ourselves.
She says she thought of her hair as something I have to get out of the way.
Ive always struggled to love my 4C hair.
We push ourselves to these extremes.
It’s like, Okay, yeah, my hair is thinning and falling out.
But I’m still going to get braids.
To grow their hair back, all three women I spoke to eventually cut out protective styles entirely.
I made a decision like, Drea, youve got to take care of this, says Okeke.
Before all this happened, I didn’t want to even look at my hair, adds Okeke.
Now, I care for my hair…I love the way I look, wig or no wig.
Some with traction alopecia eventually may be able to reincorporate protective styling back into their routine.
Get diagnosed and quickly.
Don’t do what I did.
Go to a dermatologist, find one you trust, and get diagnosed.
Parker is still steering clear of protective styles during her treatment.
Im taking progress pictures obsessively to track and see whats going on.
Parkers biggest piece of advice to Black women in a similar position is to get diagnosed and quickly.
Don’t do what I did.
Go to a dermatologist, find one you trust, and get diagnosed.
Parkers hairline in 2024.
I’m not even focused on growth.
I’m focused more on maintenance, says Martin.
This means getting braids less frequently.
The most laborious part of treating traction alopecia is tending to the internal wounds it exposes.
If it hurts, take it out.
You’re not tender-headed.
You don’t have to just suck it up.
