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Exfoliators have undergone a remarkable transformation since the 90s.

person with physical exfoliant on face and body

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FYI, it’s not a one-size-fits-all-deal like the once-prominent scrubs led us to believe.

Ahead, six board-certified dermatologists answer your pressing questions about the skin-care ritual.

What are the benefits of exfoliating?

The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Toner white bottle with black cap on gray background

But that’s not all.

Below are benefits you might not know about.

“The result is a buildup of dead skin cells, which can makelinesand wrinkles appear more prominent.

Naturium The Smoother Glycolic Acid Body Wash beige pump bottle of body wash on white background

Since exfoliation promotes cell renewal, it can increase how smooth and even your skin appears.

Dead skin cell buildup can hinder your skin’s absorption of the skin-care products you so-diligently apply.

“A lesser-known benefit is that exfoliation can prevent acne by clearing pores,” explains Dr. Stephens.

Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment small white pump bottle on white background with red Allure BoB symbol in the top right corner

But that’s not to say you should rub a face scrub all over your breakouts.

Perhaps try a chemical exfoliant.

What is a chemical exfoliant?

A white and green pump bottle of AmLactin Daily Moisturizing Lotion on a white background

Let’s start by clarifying what achemical exfoliantisn’t: a scrub.

Chemical exfoliants fall under two categories:alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)andbeta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).

The major difference between the two comes down to their solubility.

NeoStrata Clarify Mandelic Clarifying Cleanser white tube of cleanser on white background

Glycolic acid is arguably the most popular AHA.

Scientists can create it synthetically in a lab, but it’s also readily available naturally via sugarcane.

As you’ll see below, there areglycolic acid treatmentsfor both facial and body care.

Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum yellow container with black cap on light gray background

The value of the AmLactin Daily Moisturizing Lotion is hard to beat.

The non-greasy formula is a two-in-one solution that uses lactic acid to smooth textured skin and glycerin to hydrate.

That said, mandelic acid tends to be milder as an active ingredient.

Shani Darden Skin Care Triple Acid Signature Peel gray box, black brush, gray tube, and gray product sachets on white background with red Allure BoB seal in the top right corner

(Just be wary that the ingredient list may contain other actives.

For example, the NeoStrata cleanser below contains mandelic andsalicylic acid, a BHA.)

Expanding on the latter, some products contain multiple chemical exfoliants.

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial white and orange canister on white background with red Allure BoB seal in the top right corner

TheShani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peelis a standout example.

Check out two of our favorite BHA exfoliators below.

This moisturizing ingredient works alongside niacinamide to control excess oil and reduce the appearance of blackheads.

Cosrx Niacinamide 2% + BHA 4% Blackhead Exfoliant Toner transparent bottle with black pump on white background

Two standout examples include the Dermalogica Liquid Peelfoliant and Benefit Cosmetics Porefessional Tight n Toned Toner.

The texture of the Benefit Cosmetics toner might pleasantly surprise you.

“It’s best to start by cleansing the skin,” says Dr. Stephens.

Dermalogica Liquid Peelfoliant pink serum bottle with white dropper cap on white background

What is a physical exfoliant?

“Any product using mechanical exfoliation can create issues if used forcefully.”

Our editors love theDr.

Benefit Cosmetics The POREfessional Tight ‘N Toned: Pore-Refining AHA + PHA Toning Foam yellow polka dot bottle with white cap on white background with red Allure BoB seal in the top right corner

All involve manually rubbing the product onto the skin, which can easily venture into the realm of irritation.

Just know that not all board-certified dermatologists stand by mechanical exfoliants.

Dr. Collins is among them.

Image Skincare Intense Brightening Exfoliating Cleanser white tube on white background

I recommend against using physical exfoliants at home, especially on the face, she explains.

The pro adds that they can cause small micro-tears in the skin that could lead to a bacterial infection.

Exfoliating devices aren’t a mandatory investment, as effective skincare products alone can achieve similar results.

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Adding to the appeal, many come in fun, colorful designs, like toys for skincare-loving adults.

It’s important to avoid pairing the gadget with a chemical exfoliant-based cleanser, which may be too harsh.

And once finished, he recommends moisturizing the skin to replenish moisture and restore the skin barrier.

Dr. Loretta Resurfacing Enzyme Polish greige tube on white background with red Allure BoB seal in the top right corner

Are there any risks when exfoliating?

For those withsensitive skin, it’s crucial to consult your dermatologist for guidance on safe and effective exfoliation.

If your skin jot down is normal, the key consideration is avoiding excessive exfoliation.

Foreo Luna Play Plus 2 round turquoise face cleansing device on white background

This can cause the skin to overcompensate and produce excess oil, potentially leading to breakouts and irritation.

Exfoliating can also cause sun sensitivity, which makes your skin more susceptible to sunburn, says Dr. Graf.

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EltaMD UV Clear Sunscreen

Sadly, exfoliation isn’t a good idea for everyone.

EltaMD UV Clear Sunscreen white bottle on white background

How often should I exfoliate?

According to Dr. Graf, a general guideline for your face and body is one day per week.

If you’re curious about how exfoliatingandusing retinol might fit into your facial skin-care routine, consider exploringskin cycling.

This concept gained traction on TikTok in 2021, masterminded by board-certified dermatologistWhitney Bowe, MD.

In such case, consider fully committing to either retinol or chemical exfoliation.

The right exfoliation method depends on your specific skin punch in and desired skin-care outcomes.

For more beauty breakdowns:

Charli D’Amelio’s Quick Beauty Routine for Acne-Prone Skin: