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In beauty speak, theres a dedicated term for the unpleasant effects ofretinol use: the retinol uglies.
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Might I submit ascorbic agitation for consideration?
But it doesnt have to be this way!
This form penetrates more easily into the skins deeper layers than LAA while being gentler.
Meet tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (aka THDA or THDC) who really isthatgirl.
Like retinol, vitamin C is a multi-tasking powerhouse, a Swiss Army knife of skin care.
And it prevents major cell damage after UV exposure, so its a great active to prevent photoaging.
(Photoaging is when the skin ages prematurely due to sun exposure, resulting in free radical damage.)
Free radicals are highly reactive atoms and molecules that steal electrons from other molecules.
By blocking tyrosinase activity, vitamin C helps lighten existing dark spots and prevents new ones from forming."
And the ingredient has receipts.
Its clear that LAA, in its traditional form, can be problematic, both for formulators and consumers.
LAA has been sold as the do-all of skin care.
And it is pretty upsetting.
It’s not what people have sold it to be.
The only active form is LAA.
As compared to LAA, THDA penetrates better and remains more stablebecause its formulated to be that way.
LAA is inherently unstable and prone to oxidation because its structure readily reacts with oxygen in the atmosphere.
This modification not only improves THDAs stability but also allows it to integrate smoothly into oil-based formulations.
Unlike LAA, which is water-soluble and requires a low pH to remain stable, THDA is pH-independent.
LAA’s stability is so limiting.
LAA is a great active but never for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin.
Dr. Ingletons concern wascreating a safe vitamin C productfor melanated skin types.
THDA also has research suggesting efficacy forimproving different types of hyperpigmentation.
While it does penetrate skin more deeply, it needs to be converted into LAA by the skin.
And the math for that hasnt been mathed out yet.
It should be an easy answer, but there isn’t one.
We know THDA penetrates the skin three times more effectively than LAA.
To determine if the product youre considering is made with THDA, youll have to scan the ingredient list.
Ignore all products in droppers or jars, says Koestline.
And while THDA is more stable in comparison to LAA, its still able to degrade.
THDA requires time to penetrate the skin, so its best used in leave-on products.
Keep scrolling to see shop products that put THDA center stage.
