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“The most unprotected person in America is the Black woman.”
Those words from Malcolm X in 1962 are no less relevant today.
Then,Del Sandeenbreaks down the most common protective styles, their origin, and their evolution.
At the time of this writing, no one has been charged or arrested for the killing ofBreonna Taylor.
One of the most widely-seen photos of her is at her EMT training graduation ceremony.
The “B. Taylor” patch sits proudly above the chest pocket of her straight-out-of-the-box blue uniform shirt.
She’s serving warrior Queen Amina of Zaria vibes.
On this most joyous and distinguished day, Taylor chose to wear her hair in a protective style.
Black women have prepared our hair inprotective styles braids and twists and knots for centuries.
“The hair of Black women can be viewed as a metaphor for our identity and position in society.
Our hair is complex, dynamic, historically mistreated, woefully under-represented, and misunderstood.”
No other group of people finds it necessary to use the term “protective styles.”
The hair of Black women can be viewed as a metaphor for our identity and position in society.
Our hair is complex, dynamic, historically mistreated, woefully underrepresented, and misunderstood.
It has often had to code-switch and shape-shift to survive, be accepted, trusted, or adored.
It is also the site of ingenious artistry, inspiration, and innovations of almost mythical proportions.
It is in the hair where much of the “Black girl magic” you hear about is stored.
Perhaps that’s why it particularly stings when these protective styles are worn by others like an ill-fitting skin.
But cornrows, like all Black styles, predated slavery.
Being so easy to care for, they’re often looked at as the most low-maintenance of protective styles.
Fulani Braids
Like many Black hairstyling traditions,Fulani braidshave roots in Africa.
“Hair in pre-slave trade West Africa acted almost like a social security number,” says Byrd.
“Fulani braids, while beautiful, also conveyed markers of someones identity.”
They’re named for the Bantu ethnic group of Zulu people and are also known as Zulu knots.
Wound tightly, Bantu knots can project an air of steely strength.
In recent decades, there’s been a shift away from the word and its negative connotations.
The tighter your curl pattern, the easier it is to cultivate locs.
Rastafarians base their commitment to the style on biblical scriptures.
Before there wasFKA Twigsand her elaborate take on baby hairs, there wasChilli from the girl group TLC.
Before Chilli, there wasLaToya Jackson.
Along with their Latina andAfro-Latinasisters, they have truly made an art form out of styling baby hair.
Remember whenFKA Twigs’s spelled “love”?
Models: Bibi Abdulkadir, Ayaana Aschkar Stevens, and Helena Mahama.
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