This can include everything from implementing new training policies to explaining what styling products to have on hand.
It was Mathiss own disappointing experiences on set that led to the decision to start her consultancy.
There was a particular Broadway show, Mathis recalls, where I was the only Black designer.
Photography by Ambe J. Williams
I definitely felt isolated and unsupported.
It definitely burned me out.
But there’s a quote that says, Pressure busts pipes or makes diamonds.
Brittany Adebumola (“Miriam”) and Dominique Thorne (“Marie”) inJaja’s African Hair Braiding.
The styles featured in the play were incredibly intricate and sophisticated.
Brittany Adebumola (Miriam) and Dominique Thorne (Marie) inJajas African Hair Braiding.
Allure: As an actor, what have been some of your personal experiences with hair on set?
Photography by Ambe J. Williams
Nikiya Mathis:I’ve experienced people usinghot toolsthat are too hot, causing heat damage on my hair.
I don’t really care about the health of your hair.
I’ve also experienced a lack of planning for my hair key in.
Lakisha May (“Vanessa”), seated, and Nana Mensah (“Aminata”)
A lot of actresses that I know bring their own wigs to set to [avoid] those problems.
I could not trust that the person knew how to work with myhair texture.
Or, I booked this show.
Can you get me a wig so that I can verify that my hair is taken care of?
You want to do well.
This is high stakes.
You’re getting paid a good amount of money in most, or some, regards.
However [the audience] sees you is what’s going to be marked down for history.
And it’s not always fair.
Allure: Youre having to multitask whereas other actors that aren’t Black may not have to.
NM:Oh, 100%.
It’s a really heavy load.
Allure: Tell me about starting your consulting agency, AcTRESSES.
NM:I was in my first show, in New Jersey.
The theater didn’t have anyone who knew how to braid our hair.
It took several hours to get to Brooklyn; to hop on multiple trains, then the subway.
She was stressed because in the theater you only get one day off each week.
Her whole day was gone.
And [the burden] wasn’t just in the travel.
It was in the load of having to find somebody to do her hair.
And the only place she knew was Brooklyn.
And I remember saying, Hey, do you want me to do it?
Like, girl, let me do it.
I don’t want you stressed out like this.
I just found myself being in those situations every time I turned around.
Since I have this ability to do hair, I wanted to take the load off.
It wasn’t for money.
The challenging thing is that most people assume that Black women know how to do their own hair.
And by and large, that’s not the truth.Doing hair is like mothering.
Can I cry on your shoulder?
It’s been a space of love and nurturing from both sides.
Like I’m always talking about life and spiritual and emotional things.
And I’m always getting fed.
NM:I mean, I don’t know how many times an actor has said, Thank you.
I’m so glad it was you, or, I’ve never had an experience like this.
I’m grateful that I’m able to help.
And that’s the thing that’s heavy.
You don’t know anything.
What is this that she has going on here?
There has been this narrative of, Oh my gosh, you use hot tools.
I don’t know any other wig designer who uses hot tools.
Allure:I sawJaja’sand it was an incredible visual experience.
The hair was unlike anything Id ever seen.
Had you had experiences like that before?
NM:No, I had not.
And when it came along, I was just so freaking excited.
They helped to start a new conversation around hair and the importance of hair in theatrical design.
But of course, hair is a part of that.
So it’s been awesome to be a part of spearheading that and putting a light on it.
It was fun to have a crew of Black people.
The actors could come into my studio, say hi.
What are you doing?
Allure: I imagine that was a really affirming experience.
NM:That is an understatement in terms of how I felt.
Theater is always hard, but if it’s gonna be hard, let it also be beautiful.
Let us also hold each other and collaborate in a real way.
I think it was a labor of love for everybody.
Allure: How do you feel the entertainment industry is doing in terms Black hair representation overall?
You’re saying that it doesn’t matter if hair stylists know how to do their hair or not.
What is it saying about the worth of Black actors?
I’m excited about that and excited to see that work being done.
We now need to start really hiring people who are equipped to deal with all of the hair needs.
