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But the practice is known asVictorianhairwork because Queen Victoria made it popular.
Courtesy Margaret Cross
Everythings very expressive…Thats when you start to see the more elaborate [hairwork] pieces.
(A note: Im skeptical about my white European ancestors capability to invent this practice from nothing.
Hair is such an organic material, Hansen says, referring to its habit of eventually disintegrating entirely.
Mourning ring containing lock of Alexander Hamilton’s hair, 1805
I think we’ve lost a lot of history about how it would’ve been used.
A hairwork brooch, circa 1860.
Pearls, which symbolized tears, were often used as borders for brooches and pendants.
The letter Elizabeth Hamilton wrote to Nathaniel Pendleton when she gave him the ring, June 21, 1805
Its incredibly intimate and personal, Duggan says.
Youre actually holding a piece of someones body.
Plus, she says, those little portraits could get a little spicy.
A hairwork brooch, circa 1860. Pearls, which symbolized tears, were often used as borders for brooches and pendants.
Theres one infamous one thats just a womans breasts, she recalls.
But whos to say that people didnt keep a lock of hair wrapped in fabric?
A hairwork mourning bracelet made by Tiffany & Co., circa 1854.
A hairwork mourning bracelet made by Tiffany & Co., circa 1854.
By the 1900s, all forms of mourning jewellery were now viewed with repugnance.
You could order hair jewelry through the mail, Schmidt Bach says.
photography (Duggan: Whats even better [than a lock of hair]?
Hansen with one of her homemade braiding tables.
An actual picture of someone.)
and the rise of thefuneral industry, which made the post-death process very hands-off for most Americans.
By the 1900s, all forms of mourning jewellery were now viewed with repugnance, Luthi wrote.
A close up of Hansen’s work.
There was to be no revival of mourning jewellery in the twentieth century.
Modern-Day Hairwork
But here in the twenty-first?
We just might be ready to embrace the practice again.
A hairwork wreath on an antique portrait.
Hansen with one of her homemade braiding tables.
A close up of Hansen’s work.
Released in 1867, it isavailable for free onlineand contains over 100 patterns for different types of hairworking braids.
One of Schneck’s hairwork bouquets.
Women are not usually getting named credit for the sewing and weaving and knitting work they do.
Thanks to social media, modern hobbyists dont have to rely solely on the writings of a possible grifter.
She credits Hansens videos for her own interest in the craft.
A ring by Cross.
Her work is just gorgeous, Schneck says.
A hairwork wreath on an antique portrait.
One of Schneck’s hairwork bouquets.
A pendant by Cross.
Im lucky that everybody who knows me knows the kind of art Ive been doing, Schneck says.
Ive had a lot of people donate their hair for me to work on.
As in the nineteenth century, there are many different types of hairworking done today.
A ring that weaves together hair from a mother and son.
When I saw hair jewelry I was like, this rules, Cross recalls.
But people are disgusted by this.
A ring by Cross.
A close up of Hansen’s work.
A pendant by Cross.
He could not get away from my stand fast enough.
For instance, some ancient hairwork is believed to be the result of headhunting.
A wreath Lane made using the hair from several members of a family.
A ring that weaves together hair from a mother and son.
Its just growing so fast, she says of the practice.
I cant keep up.
A piece Lane made from the hair of multiple family members.
Lane and Schneck have both paused taking commissions until they can catch up on their current workload.
Crosss waitlist is nearly 300 people long.
Hairwork is just growing so fast.
I can’t keep up.
The same people who comment Is that hair?
It doesnt want to be tamed, she says.
A wreath Lane made using the hair from several members of a family.
A piece Lane made from the hair of multiple family members.
Regardless of the size of the project, hairwork is inherently a sentimental business.
Lane does a video consultation with all of her custom work clients.
These conversations also allow her to learn a bit more about the person whose hair shes working with.
That means so much to me as the artist.
If you think about it, of course they do, she says.
Youre sending in this sacred, final physical form of your loved one.
Youre not just going to post it in an envelope.
When she does, the comment sections are flooded with support for her work.
Just like the romantics in the Victorian age, were living through an emotionally-charged era.
Scientists like to remind us thatwere lonelier than ever.
Thedeath positive movementis on the rise.
In other words, this moment couldnt be more primed for the hairwork to make its dramatic return.
Artists like the ones in this story can help others find that beauty.
A lot of modern capitalism feels very impersonal, Lane says.
It feels really crazy to just sweep it up and throw it away.
