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When you think of the mostexpensive fragrancesin the world, your mind probably doesn’t go to tree fungus.
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Oud takes time to cook, so to speak.
Certain natural circumstances need to convene for it to form within an aquilaria tree, a species of evergreen.
Rooted in religion and spiritualityand then a victim of modern overconsumptionits rarity and intense aroma add to its allure.
Ahead, the industrys top experts shed light on the most fascinating and polarizing ingredient in fragrance.
What is oud?
Oud essential oil is extracted from aquilaria trees, a species of evergreens native toSoutheast Asia and North India.
The catch: Healthy aquilaria trees do not produce oud.
The injured treemust be cut downto retrieve the agarwood, which is extracted from the trunk and the root.
Why is oud so special?
Oud is commonly offered as an aromatic refreshment to guests visiting one’s home.
How did oud become so popular?
Oud is extremely popular.
It’s beyond popularityit’s a way of life.
People didnt talk about fragrance notes the way they do today, Ilohalia says.
Over the next four to five years, niche brands like Le Labo and Bond No.
9 began using oud, sparking a trend that took off in 2012.
What does oud smell like?
Oud is warm, musky, animalic, and slightly sweeta deeply rich and complex scent.
[Oud] is very natural, sometimes aggressively so.
They are distinctively different compositions, but they all share telltale qualities of oud.
It’s difficult to describe, but once you’ve smelled oud, you could probably recognize it anywhere.
“It is a unique way to add depth and sensuality to the dry down.
Oud is also one of the longest-lasting ingredients perfumers have at their disposal.
More abstractly, theres also an otherworldly quality to oud fragrances.
Its a spiritual wood that elevates the fragrance to something uniqueyoure taking perfume to another realm, almost.
Voelkl believes oud can add a level of mystery to a scent.
How is oud incorporated into fragrances?
& DURGA
Notorious Oud Eau de Parfum
D.S.
Kattan createdbakhoor versionsof her Kayali Oudgasm collection, as well as aRose Oud Hair Mist.
Compared with notes like rose and vetiver, organic oud sources are quite rare.
Then it can take at least 25 years for the tree to naturally produce harvestable oud, Voelkl says.
Plus, determining whether or not an aquilaria tree contains oud isnot an exact science.
Scarcity and environmental restrictions mean the price of real oud has become astronomical.
Its like the Bitcoin of essential oils, says Christie.
One drop on your finger will cost you thousands.
So, is my perfume made with synthetic oud?
Perfumers have developed some workarounds.
Voekl, at dsm-Firmenich, sometimes combines natural ingredients with synthetic molecules when replicating the smell of natural oud.
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