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When you think of the mostexpensive fragrancesin the world, your mind probably doesn’t go to tree fungus.

perfume bottle leaning on cap

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Oud takes time to cook, so to speak.

Certain natural circumstances need to convene for it to form within an aquilaria tree, a species of evergreen.

Rooted in religion and spiritualityand then a victim of modern overconsumptionits rarity and intense aroma add to its allure.

Armani Privé Oud Royal Eau de Parfum in branded bottle component on a light gray background

Ahead, the industrys top experts shed light on the most fascinating and polarizing ingredient in fragrance.

What is oud?

Oud essential oil is extracted from aquilaria trees, a species of evergreens native toSoutheast Asia and North India.

Initio Oud for Greatness Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

The catch: Healthy aquilaria trees do not produce oud.

The injured treemust be cut downto retrieve the agarwood, which is extracted from the trunk and the root.

Why is oud so special?

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Oud is commonly offered as an aromatic refreshment to guests visiting one’s home.

Oud is extremely popular.

Strangelove Dead of Night Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

It’s beyond popularityit’s a way of life.

People didnt talk about fragrance notes the way they do today, Ilohalia says.

Over the next four to five years, niche brands like Le Labo and Bond No.

BDK Parfums Oud Abramad Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

9 began using oud, sparking a trend that took off in 2012.

What does oud smell like?

Oud is warm, musky, animalic, and slightly sweeta deeply rich and complex scent.

House of Bo Infinitoud Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

[Oud] is very natural, sometimes aggressively so.

They are distinctively different compositions, but they all share telltale qualities of oud.

It’s difficult to describe, but once you’ve smelled oud, you could probably recognize it anywhere.

Dior Oud Ispahan Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

“It is a unique way to add depth and sensuality to the dry down.

Oud is also one of the longest-lasting ingredients perfumers have at their disposal.

More abstractly, theres also an otherworldly quality to oud fragrances.

Hermès Oud Alezan Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Its a spiritual wood that elevates the fragrance to something uniqueyoure taking perfume to another realm, almost.

Voelkl believes oud can add a level of mystery to a scent.

How is oud incorporated into fragrances?

Molton Brown Rose Dunes Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

& DURGA

Notorious Oud Eau de Parfum

D.S.

Kattan createdbakhoor versionsof her Kayali Oudgasm collection, as well as aRose Oud Hair Mist.

Compared with notes like rose and vetiver, organic oud sources are quite rare.

Juliette Has a Gun Another Oud Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Then it can take at least 25 years for the tree to naturally produce harvestable oud, Voelkl says.

Plus, determining whether or not an aquilaria tree contains oud isnot an exact science.

Scarcity and environmental restrictions mean the price of real oud has become astronomical.

Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Its like the Bitcoin of essential oils, says Christie.

One drop on your finger will cost you thousands.

So, is my perfume made with synthetic oud?

D.S. & Durga Notorious Oud Eau de Parfum bottle of yellow perfume with tall black cap on light gray background

Perfumers have developed some workarounds.

Voekl, at dsm-Firmenich, sometimes combines natural ingredients with synthetic molecules when replicating the smell of natural oud.

Read more about the latest fragrance trends:

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Parfums de Marly Haltane Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Chantecaille Oud Fumé Eau de Parfum rectangle bottle of yellow perfume with silver cap on light gray background

Kayali Oudgasm Café Oud Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Byredo Rouge Chaotique Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Edeniste’s Oud Ghazal Eau de Parfum in branded component on a light gray background

Kayali Oudgasm Café Oud 19 in branded component on a light gray background

Kayali Oudgasm Rose Oud Hair Mist black bottle on light gray background

Dior Oud Ispahan Hydrating Body Lotion white bottle of body lotion with black pump cap on light gray background

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood Scented Soap in branded component on a light gray background