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I like to think I know a bit about fragrance.
Yana Sheptovetskaya
Since then, Ive interviewed perfumers fromGrasseto Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
And as a beauty editor, I smell and review new perfume launches for a living.
Yet, if you asked me to define a chypre fragrance, I couldnt have told you the answer.
I dont think Im the only one, either.
I watched every TikTok video on chypres in less than 10 minutes.
Chypres, however, seem to be creeping back into our consciousnesses.
A chypre is a fragrance of contrasts.
Its both fresh and woody, light and dark, strong and sensual, chic and assertive.
Ahead, some of the fragrance industrys top perfumers and experts help explain.
First off, how do you pronounce chypre?
For French speakers, it rolls off the tongue.
The rest of us?
What is a chypre fragrance?
Chypre is a historical fragrance family thats based on ingredients found on the island of Cyprus.
That relationship between the brightcitruson top and the deep mossy,earthy baseis what makes a chypre a chypre.
A classic chypre is also a very strong and assertive scent.
They have that freshness because of the citrus but theyre big and bold, says Givaudan principal perfumerChristine Hassan.
Its a fragrance people have always worn when they want to make a statement.
What is the history of the chypre category?
In the 19th century, many fragrance houses produced chypre-inspired perfumes.
What really put the category on the map though was when Francois Coty debuted chypre de Coty in 1917.
The genius of Francois Coty was that he found a way to tone it down without losing its character.
Chypre became hugely fashionable again in the mid-1940s after the end of the Second World War.
In the 1980s, chypre became stylish once again.
So, whats this about oakmoss?
Chemists created a clear oakmoss absolute, with theamount of atranol and chloroatranol reducedto less than 100 ppm.
You find other ways to create that depth and dimension, she explains.
What is a modern chypre fragrance?
Even before oakmoss was banned, the chypre category began to evolve.
So how do you know if a fragrance is a chypre?
Some brands make it easy.
If you see this description, youre almost guaranteed to be looking at a chypre.
The difficulty in categorization isnt limited to the chypre family.
There is definitely space for interpretation.
Well then, what does a chypre fragrance smell like?
Because of this, many perfumers describe the scent in more abstract terms.
Are we experiencing a chypre revival?
The category might be old and complex, but its also incredibly diverse.
Its still a genius fragrance that Guerlain has done a great job reinterpreting, says Edwards.
The bergamot on top is a green bergamot, picked before it was able to ripen.
It brought a lot of modernity to the category, says Baghriche.
When it launched [in 2008] it was so innovative, says Hassan.
Plus, it goes very well with the patchouli and oakmoss.
Wed say mission accomplished with this unexpected yet easy-to-wear scent.
Its absolutely amazing and just fantastic on skin, says Hassan.
Read more about fragrances.
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