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I like to think I know a bit about fragrance.

An image of a finger pressing down on a perfume bottle dispensing the fragrance.

Yana Sheptovetskaya

Since then, Ive interviewed perfumers fromGrasseto Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

And as a beauty editor, I smell and review new perfume launches for a living.

Yet, if you asked me to define a chypre fragrance, I couldnt have told you the answer.

Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum bottle of perfume with triangle crystal cap on light gray background

I dont think Im the only one, either.

I watched every TikTok video on chypres in less than 10 minutes.

Chypres, however, seem to be creeping back into our consciousnesses.

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A chypre is a fragrance of contrasts.

Its both fresh and woody, light and dark, strong and sensual, chic and assertive.

Ahead, some of the fragrance industrys top perfumers and experts help explain.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her Eau de Parfum pink rectangle bottle of perfume on light gray background

First off, how do you pronounce chypre?

For French speakers, it rolls off the tongue.

The rest of us?

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum crystal rectangle bottle of peach perfume on light gray background

What is a chypre fragrance?

Chypre is a historical fragrance family thats based on ingredients found on the island of Cyprus.

That relationship between the brightcitruson top and the deep mossy,earthy baseis what makes a chypre a chypre.

Infiniment Coty Or de Moi Eau de Parfum tall bottle of perfume with white bauble cap on light gray background

A classic chypre is also a very strong and assertive scent.

They have that freshness because of the citrus but theyre big and bold, says Givaudan principal perfumerChristine Hassan.

Its a fragrance people have always worn when they want to make a statement.

Floral Street Chypre Sublime Eau de Parfum rounded square red floral bottle of perfume on light gray background

What is the history of the chypre category?

In the 19th century, many fragrance houses produced chypre-inspired perfumes.

What really put the category on the map though was when Francois Coty debuted chypre de Coty in 1917.

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Eau de Parfum oval shaped bottle of perfume with bronze cap on light gray background

The genius of Francois Coty was that he found a way to tone it down without losing its character.

Chypre became hugely fashionable again in the mid-1940s after the end of the Second World War.

In the 1980s, chypre became stylish once again.

Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris Eau de Parfum bottle of light pink perfume with black bow on light gray background

So, whats this about oakmoss?

Chemists created a clear oakmoss absolute, with theamount of atranol and chloroatranol reducedto less than 100 ppm.

You find other ways to create that depth and dimension, she explains.

Etat Libre d’Orange Afternoon of a Faun Eau de Parfum rectangle bottle of perfume on light gray background

What is a modern chypre fragrance?

Even before oakmoss was banned, the chypre category began to evolve.

So how do you know if a fragrance is a chypre?

Chloe Nomade Eau de Parfum bottle of pale peach perfume with gold cap on light gray background

Some brands make it easy.

If you see this description, youre almost guaranteed to be looking at a chypre.

The difficulty in categorization isnt limited to the chypre family.

Maya Njie Voyeur Verde Eau de Parfum square bottle of perfume with black cap on light gray background

There is definitely space for interpretation.

Well then, what does a chypre fragrance smell like?

Because of this, many perfumers describe the scent in more abstract terms.

Armani Sí Eau de Parfum rectangle bottle of peach perfume with black bauble cap on light gray background

Are we experiencing a chypre revival?

The category might be old and complex, but its also incredibly diverse.

Its still a genius fragrance that Guerlain has done a great job reinterpreting, says Edwards.

The bergamot on top is a green bergamot, picked before it was able to ripen.

It brought a lot of modernity to the category, says Baghriche.

When it launched [in 2008] it was so innovative, says Hassan.

Plus, it goes very well with the patchouli and oakmoss.

Wed say mission accomplished with this unexpected yet easy-to-wear scent.

Its absolutely amazing and just fantastic on skin, says Hassan.

Read more about fragrances.

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